In a world of fleeting trends and digital distractions, there exists a spectacle of raw, primal, and deeply spiritual power that has captivated audiences for centuries. Imagine a sun-drenched field, the air thick with the scent of grass and olive oil. Before you stand titans, their bodies glistening under the Turkish sun, clad in stiff leather trousers, locked in a embrace that is as much a dance as it is a struggle. This is "Yağlı Güreş"-the legendary "Turkish Oil Wrestling".
Under the scorching heat of the Turkish sun, two men clash, their interlocked bodies gleaming with oil, every muscle taut with strain. The hot air smells of trampled grass. Drums beat steadily, occasionally interrupted by the men’s grunts. Both claw into sweaty skin, their hands delving deep into their opponent’s leather shorts for purchase - the only way to win this oily battle.
This is not just a contest of strength; it is a ritual. It is a pilgrimage for its participants and a mesmerizing tradition for its spectators. To understand Turkish Oil Wrestling is to understand a fundamental piece of the Turkish soul.
This is oil wrestling, an ancient sport practised in Turkey and parts of Iran and the Balkans. At its heart, it consists of two pehlivan (wrestlers) doused in olive oil, locked in a slippery struggle. Clad only in black buffalo-hide shorts, with their names embroidered on the back, wrestlers grapple, push and pull to gain the split-second upperhand to pin their opponent’s shoulders to the ground, achieving victory and honour in the process.
The pehlivans wrestle on the stadium's grass field under the scorching sun, with midday temperatures reaching 35°C (95°F), adding an extra challenge to the sport.
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Origins and History
The story of Turkish Oil Wrestling begins not in a stadium, but on the battlefields of the ancient world. In Assyria, ancient Egypt, and Babylonia, oil wrestling was performed. It spread to Iran and Turkey during the First Achaemenid conquest of Egypt. Oil wrestling was performed by ancient communities 4,500 years ago in Thrace and the Balkans. The earliest evidence of wrestling in Anatolia dates back to the civilizations of the Hittites and the Babylonians.
After the conquest of Anatolia by Seljuk Turks, a form of traditional freestyle wrestling called Karakucak Güreşi (literally "Ground hug") was popularized, where special leather clothing was worn and wrestlers commenced the competition by pouring olive oil on their bodies. This form evolved into what is currently known as Yağlı Güreş, or Turkish oil wrestling.
In the ancient Olympic Games, wrestling matches featured oil to enhance the challenge.
The most pivotal event in Oil Wrestling history is the Kırkpınar Tournament, held annually in Edirne. Evidence from Ottoman chronicles and documents indicate that the Kırkpınar Games have been held every year since 1362. The Guinness Book of World Records accepts this as the world's oldest continually sanctioned sporting competition. The games have only been cancelled about 70 times.
Located just a 10-minute drive from the Greek border, the city served as the Ottoman capital in the 15th century. Edirne's history traces back to ancient Hadrianopolis, founded by Emperor Hadrian. Its name is believed to be a later adaptation of 'Hadrian.'
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The legend, dating back to 1362, tells of two Ottoman soldiers, Ali and Selim, who were brothers in arms. During a military campaign to conquer Rumelia, they stopped to rest. To pass the time and test their strength, the two brothers began to wrestle. Their contest was so evenly matched that they wrestled for hours, neither able to secure a victory. Their comrades, deeply moved, buried them under a fig tree. Years later, when soldiers returned to the site, they found a spring bubbling up from the ground where the brothers had fallen.
This origin story sets the tone for the entire sport. It’s not about animosity, but about respect, brotherhood ("er meydanı" - the field of men), and pushing human limits.
The Significance of Oil
The most distinctive and defining feature of this sport is, of course, the oil. Before their matches, wrestlers douse themselves from head to toe in olive oil. From a practical standpoint, the oil makes gripping incredibly difficult. It neutralizes brute strength and shifts the contest from a simple test of power to a complex battle of technique, balance, leverage, and strategy. A wrestler cannot simply rely on his muscles to overpower an opponent; he must use skill to find a hold, often resorting to intricate moves that require inserting a hand into the opponent's kıspet (the leather trousers).
Symbolically, the oil represents purity and a connection to nature. Olive oil has long been considered a sacred substance in Anatolian cultures, used in religious rituals, for healing, and as a source of light and nourishment. By covering themselves in it, the wrestlers are purified, set apart from the ordinary world, and prepared for a sacred contest.
The Pehlivan: A Turkish Hero
A pehlivan (Turkish oil wrestler) is not merely an athlete; he is an archetype of Turkish virtue. The word itself is of Persian origin, meaning "hero" or "champion." The code of conduct for a "pehlivan" is as important as his wrestling prowess. Historically, "pehlivans" were pillars of their communities. They traveled the land, not just to compete, but to spread a message of integrity and strength. This ethos is encapsulated in the saying, "Er meydanı" - the field of men, where true character is revealed not just in victory, but in how one handles defeat. A great "pehlivan" shows respect to his opponents, his elders, and the tradition itself.
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In the Ottoman Empire, wrestlers trained in special schools called tekke (تکیه), which were both athletic and spiritual centers.
“You must dedicate your life to the craft to become a başpehlivan at Kırkpınar,” he says, as young wrestlers gather around him for selfies. Ahmet, a nine-time champion, is the only living holder of the eternal golden belt, awarded to those who achieve three consecutive victories. His handshake leaves no doubt - 20 years after retiring from the sport, he could still toss me around like a sack of hay.
“Today’s youngsters are more drawn to glory than tradition,” he continues. “But oil wrestling is about sportsmanship and respect.” Before matches, wrestlers perform the peşrev, a ritual where wrestlers slap their thighs rhythmically as they walk in a toy soldier-like fashion to each side of the stadium to greet the audience and then kneel to salute the soil, symbolising their eventual return to nature. After the match ends, the winner lifts and embraces their opponent, ensuring a respectful conclusion.
The Kıspet: Leather Trousers of Honor
The "kıspet" are the traditional leather trousers worn by the wrestlers. Made from water buffalo or cow hide, weighing up to 13 kilograms, they are a crucial piece of equipment and a powerful symbol. Crafting a "kıspet" is an artisanal skill passed down through generations. Each pair is custom-made and molded to the wrestler's body. The process of breaking in a new "kıspet" is a rite of passage in itself, often requiring the wrestler to soak them and wear them for extended periods to achieve the perfect fit.
Rules and Rituals of the Match
A Turkish Oil Wrestling match takes place on an open grass field. The objective is to achieve a firm hold and control over one's opponent, resulting in a pin. However, the primary method of scoring is by reaching into the opponent's "kıspet". This act, known as "paça kazanmak", is a significant achievement.
Unlike Olympic wrestling, oil wrestling matches may be won by achieving an effective hold of the kisbet, the loose-fitting leather pants worn during oil wrestling. Thus, the wrestler aims to control his opponent by putting his arm through the latter's kisbet. To win by using this move is called paça kazık.
Originally, matches had no set duration and could go on for one or two days until one man was able to establish his superiority, but in 1975 the duration was capped at 40 minutes for the baspehlivan and 30 minutes for the pehlivan category.
According to the rules of oil wrestling, the loser is the wrestler whose back touches the ground as a result of the opponent's actions ("showing belly to the stars"); sitting supported by two hands behind them; touching the ground with both elbows or elbow and hand. The winner is the wrestler who raises his opponent and either carries him three steps or spins him around.
Before 1975, the duration of each wrestling match was unlimited, which was highly inconvenient from the competition's organizational point of view as matches could drag on for hours. Currently, wrestling is limited to 30 minutes in young categories, and 40 minutes for masters.
The most important of rituals is peşrev, a theatrical introduction to wrestling, prayer, and warm-up at the same time. Rituals like peşrev also exist in the other kinds of Turkish traditional wrestling (karakucak, aba güreş), but they are much simpler and don't have a developed symbolism.
At the beginning of peşrev, wrestlers line up in rows with the main pehlivan (başpehlivan, the winner of the previous competitions) on the right. Wrestlers then look toward the Kıbla's side; they take the right hand of the competitor in their own right hand, take the competitor's left hand in their left hand, and listen to cazgır prayer. Holding each other's hands means: "You are more than a brother for me; you are my comrade in a holy war, in struggle on the way of martyrdom (şehadet).
A wrestler's garment comprises only leather pants below the knee called kıspet. Kıspet is derived from the Arabic word Kiswa and adheres to the minimum modesty standard of Muslim men where the garment starts at the belt and goes down to just below the knee, covering their awrah. The word itself came to the Ottoman language through Persian. Until the 1960s, kıspets were made of buffalo skin and weighed between 12-13 kg.
The crowd is an integral part of the festival, cheering for their favourite wrestlers while jeering at unsportsmanlike moves or those who evade confrontation to run down the clock.
Kırkpınar: The Heart of Oil Wrestling
Here, at the Kırkpınar oil wrestling festival, in the western Turkish city of Edirne, the stakes are as high as they get. Each July, Turkey’s top pehlivans gather for this ultimate showdown. Now in its 664th year, it’s one of the world’s oldest sporting events. The competition is believed to have originated as a morale booster for Ottoman troops, and later evolved into a festivity honouring sultans. However, oil wrestling as a sport predates the Ottomans, with its roots in the region tracing back to the eighth century BCE during Greco-Roman times.
Matches are held all over Turkey throughout the year, but in early summer, around 1000 competitors gather in Kırkpınar for an annual three-day wrestling tournament to determine who will be the winner, or başpehlivan ("chief wrestler"), of Turkey.
Recognised as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, Kırkpınar has, in recent years, transformed from a three-day sporting event into a week-long celebration with traditional dance shows, food markets and concerts by beloved Turkish artists, culminating in the grand weekend when the championship takes centre stage.
Over the years, Kırkpınar has evolved into a vibrant cultural event featuring exhibitions, concerts, and Ottoman marching band performances.
On Sunday, the day of the final match, I explore Edirne’s city centre in the morning as the early rounds unfold. After a half-hour walk through the residential neighbourhoods separating the festival grounds from the town centre, I arrive on a hill overlooking the city’s busy, cobblestone streets. This is the site of Edirne’s crown jewel: the Selimiye Mosque, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan’s magnum opus. With its vast dome and colourful tile-adorned interiors, it’s a breathtaking symbol of the Empire’s golden age.
Down the hill, all kinds of shops welcome visitors. But the most inviting are the restaurants that fill the air with the scent of fried calf liver, Edirne’s signature dish. Lightly floured and fried to a crisp, it’s served with onions, tomatoes, chilli dip and bread, perfectly nutty and melt-in-your-mouth.
A few streets away, I pass taverns getting ready for the evening. Patrons will fill tables for a classic meyhane night, which sees tables covered with shared meze plates, the aniseed smell of Turkey’s national drink raki accompanying the food and the rich, joyous music of Roma musicians playing clarinets and darbuka (goblet drums) in exchange for tips.
The winner of a final tournament receives the title of başpehlivan and a monetary award. A pehlivan who won three years successively is awarded a Golden belt.
An agha is like the main organizer or sponsor of the Kırkpınar festival.
In the early rounds, multiple duels unfold simultaneously across the grass arena, with eager fans scanning for the next slip or takedown. But my eyes are fixed on the match in front of me, between Yusuf Can Zeybek and his opponent. Though not the tallest or bulkiest, Yusuf Can is a force to reckon with. His speed and unforgiving precision earned him last year’s golden belt and the prestigious title of başpehlivan (chief wrestler).
Later that day, I return to Kırkpınar to catch the final match and find the air in the stadium thick with anticipation. Spectators fill every seat and stair, as lighter-weight finals wrap up ahead of the main event. Among the crowd are political figures, including Istanbul’s mayor, the opposition leader and even former presidents of other nations.
The finalists, both from Antalya, are Yusuf Can Zeybek and Mustafa Taş. Yusuf Can, the defending champion, stands at 5ft 10 inches; he’s shorter than the average wrestler but is known as the yorulmaz pehlivan (tireless wrestler) for his endless stamina. Mustafa, on the other hand, is a towering 6ft 3-inch, 240-pound force and the 2022 titleholder.
The clash of the titans begins with quick, calculated moves as the wrestlers try to find an opening to gain the upperhand, but it soon becomes a tense deadlock, their steps slowing on the grass as neither yields an inch. Then, in the 52nd minute, Yusuf Can strikes. With precision and speed, he grabs Mustafa’s waistband and leg, toppling him for a sudden, decisive victory. Taking this as their cue, the crowd rushes the field.
For the second year in a row, Yusuf Can proves that oil wrestling demands not just strength, but resilience and cunning. In July 2025, he will chase history -a third consecutive win, and the honour of becoming one of only two living holders of the eternal golden belt. Yet for Yusuf Can, the stakes are deeply personal. I catch him during his post-match interview on the field amid a gaggle of reporters and fans. “I wrestled for her,” he says referring to his late mother, holding back his tears. “I’ll take the belt back to my village and lay it at her grave.”
Modern Oil Wrestling
In the 21st century, Turkish Oil Wrestling faces the challenge of staying relevant. Yet, it is experiencing a remarkable resurgence. While it remains a deeply Turkish tradition, its appeal is becoming more global. Modern "pehlivans" often come from specific regions in Turkey, like the wrestling heartland of "Karakucak". They still undergo rigorous training, but now often combine traditional methods with modern sports science. The Kırkpınar Festival itself has evolved into a massive cultural event, featuring music, food, and a vibrant fair, attracting tens of thousands of tourists.
To watch a Turkish wrestling match is a multisensory experience. The visual of the oiled bodies in the sunlight is unforgettable. The sound is a symphony of its own: the deep, rhythmic breathing of the wrestlers, the slap of flesh on flesh, the calls of the referees, and the encouraging shouts from the crowd. The matches can be long, strategic marathons. It’s not uncommon for contests to last an hour or more, a true test of endurance. The tension builds slowly, with periods of stalemate suddenly erupting into a flurry of explosive action as one wrestler seizes an opportunity.
Turkish Oil Wrestling is a powerful anomaly in the modern sporting landscape. In an age of hyper-commercialization, it remains a profoundly spiritual and cultural practice. It is a sport where the journey and the code of honor are as important as the victory. From the legendary fields of Kırkpınar to local festivals across Turkey, the chain that connects the 14th-century brothers Ali and Selim to the "Başpehlivan" of today remains unbroken. It is a living monument to Turkish history, a dramatic display of human physicality, and a beautiful testament to the enduring power of tradition.
So, the next time you see an image of these glistening giants locked in their timeless embrace, remember-you are not just looking at a sport.
Whilst the rules of Turkish wrestling are easy to understand, there are a few other things that you will need to know before playing or watching Turkish oil wrestling.
Before each bout begins, wrestlers warm up in a ritual called “pesrev”.
As you have probably guessed, it is advantageous to have plenty of oil on you. Not only do wrestlers oil themselves, especially down their trousers, but other wrestlers and random people armed with pitchers full of olive oil will help you out with that.
During bouts, you might hear Festive Turkish music.
The referee in a Turkish Oil wrestling match is known as a Cazgir. He is usually dressed in white with blue trousers, and their job is part of mastering the ceremonies and part of a referee.